By Bob Baker Heating • HVAC • Plumbing • • • • 0 Comments

It might be too late

The Baker Team

Maintaining an efficient HVAC system is paramount for winter comfort and energy savings. This essay will delve into essential tips to optimize your Heating, Ventilation, and Air Conditioning (HVAC) system during the colder months.

Regular maintenance is the cornerstone of a well-functioning HVAC system. Start by inspecting and changing the air filters. Clogged filters hinder airflow, forcing the system to work harder and consume more energy. Ideally, filters should be replaced every 1-3 months, depending on usage. Additionally, a professional HVAC technician should perform an annual inspection, addressing issues like worn-out parts, leaks, or inefficiencies.

Adjusting the thermostat wisely contributes significantly to energy efficiency. Lowering the thermostat a few degrees when you’re away or sleeping can lead to substantial energy savings. Consider investing in a programmable thermostat, allowing you to automate temperature adjustments based on your daily routine. Smart thermostats take this a step further, enabling remote control through mobile devices.

Sealing any leaks or gaps in your home is crucial for preserving the warm air generated by the HVAC system. Inspect doors, windows, and other potential areas for drafts. Weatherstripping, caulking, and using door sweeps can effectively reduce heat loss, enhancing the overall efficiency of the HVAC system.

Ductwork plays a pivotal role in distributing heated air throughout your home. Inspect and seal any leaks or gaps in the ducts to prevent heat loss. Proper insulation of ducts in unconditioned spaces like attics or crawl spaces ensures that the warm air remains at the desired temperature as it travels through the system.

Optimizing the airflow within your living spaces is essential for uniform heating. Ensure that furniture, curtains, or other obstacles are not blocking vents. Clean vents and registers regularly to remove dust and debris that can impede airflow. This simple maintenance task contributes to a more effective and energy-efficient HVAC system.

Consider upgrading to a high-efficiency HVAC system if your current one is outdated. Modern systems often come with advanced features such as variable-speed motors, which adjust the airflow based on the heating needs. This results in more precise temperature control and reduced energy consumption.

They waited….. 😉

Don’t forget the importance of humidity control. Cold air tends to be dry, and maintaining the right humidity levels can enhance comfort. Humidifiers integrated into your HVAC system can help achieve optimal indoor humidity, preventing issues like dry skin and static electricity.

In extremely cold climates, protect your HVAC system from the elements. Consider installing a cover for the exterior unit to shield it from snow, ice, and debris. This simple step can prolong the lifespan of your system and ensure its reliable performance throughout the winter months.

In conclusion, winter HVAC tips encompass regular maintenance, strategic thermostat adjustments, sealing leaks, optimizing airflow, and considering system upgrades. By implementing these measures, you not only ensure a cozy and comfortable living environment but also contribute to energy conservation and cost savings.

By Baker Plumbing and Heating | Calgary Plumbing • • • • • • • 0 Comments

Alberta Septic Fields/Tanks and Freezing

Question#2: How do I keep my septic field or tank from freezing?

Thanks to Martin for asking this question.

A septic system is a highly efficient, self-contained, underground wastewater treatment system. Because septic systems treat and dispose of household wastewater onsite, they are often more economical than centralized sewer systems in rural areas where lot sizes are larger and houses are spaced widely apart.

Alberta Septic Tank Installation

Septic systems are also simple in design, which make them generally less expensive to install and maintain. And by using natural processes to treat the wastewater onsite, usually in a homeowner’s backyard, septic systems don’t require the installation of miles of sewer lines, making them less disruptive to the environment.

A septic system consists of two main; a septic tank and a drain-field. The septic tank is a watertight box, usually made of concrete or fiberglass, with an inlet and outlet pipe. Wastewater flows from the home to the septic tank through the sewer pipe. The septic tank treats the wastewater naturally by holding it in the tank long enough for solids and liquids to separate. The wastewater forms three layers inside the tank. Solids lighter than water (such as greases and oils) float to the top forming a layer of scum. Solids heavier than water settle at the bottom of the tank forming a layer of sludge. This leaves a middle layer of partially clarified wastewater.

The layers of sludge and scum remain in the septic tank where bacteria found naturally in the wastewater work to break the solids down. The sludge and scum that cannot be broken down are retained in the tank until the tank is pumped.

The layer of clarified liquid flows from the septic tank to the drain-field or to a distribution device, which helps to uniformly distribute the wastewater in the drain-field. A standard drain-field (also known as a leaching field, disposal field, or a soil absorption system) is a series of trenches or a bed lined with gravel or course sand and buried one to three feet below the ground surface. Perforated pipes or drain tiles run through the trenches to distribute the wastewater. The drain-field treats the wastewater by allowing it to slowly trickle from the pipes out into the gravel and down through the soil. The gravel and soil act as biological filters.

The use of septic fields goes back a hundred years or so. The first ones were very simple holding containers that would eventually leach into the ground. I even saw a septic tank made out of an old car (I wish I had pictures of it). Anyway the tank and piping of a septic tank usually are not buried very deep. Typically between 18″ to 36″ for the pipe and 6′ to 8′ for the bottom of the tank.

As long as the tank is being used you should have no problems with the tank or lines freezing. The bacteria that break down the effluent (poo and other assorted materials) create quite a bit of heat which keeps everything toasty. I couple of rules to remember though.

  1. Keep all traffic off the drain line from the house to septic, the septic tank and field. That includes foot traffic, horses, cars, anything with weight to it that can drive the frost further into the ground causing freeze ups
  2. Straws bales can be your best friend. Piling bales over the tank and building sewer can further insulate the lines and protect them
  3. Keep your field manicured (cut the grass). This helps aid the transfer of gases that the bacteria create to the atmosphere and will keep your field fit and operational

Some Do Not’s

  1. Do not add anti-freeze, salt or a spetic additive to system
  2. Do not pump sewage to the surface
  3. Do not start a fire over the system to unthaw
  4. Do not run water continually to unfreeze

A typically system looks something like this.

Alberta Septic Tank Installation

Some of the restrictions for installing a septic fields are outlined here.

Septic tank installation set-backs